Having participated as a judge for the past three years at the Concours Millesime Bio, it is with mixed expectations that I plan a visit to next week’s three day exhibition in Montpellier for organic wineries from around the world. Rampant volatile acidity, drying tannins, whacky wild-ferment aromas, and a general lack of fruit seemed to be the norm rather than the exception, and the judges at my table each year found it hard to eke out even a few bronze medals.
Hopefully my experience will prove to be bad luck rather than an indication of a generalised malaise in the fast-growing organic segment…..
One exception that Tim Smith Wine Export Management would like to champion is Cave Aubaï Mema in the Languedoc. Owned and worked according to the Biodynamic calendar by Englishman Mark Haynes, and consisting of 10 hectares on limestone soil in a dry valley surrounded by garrigue, Aubai Mema produces exceptional artisanal wines from Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Chardonnay and Viognier, wines that rival pretty much anything from the Rhône Valley. Try the stunning 2009 Lunatico from old-vine Grenache and be convinced!
